HCON Trail Etiquette
1. Ride at the ability level of the least experienced rider or horse. If you have a new rider or a young, green horse in your group, do not ride too quickly or take trails too challenging for them.
2. Many groups tie red ribbons to the tails of those horses known to kick, green ribbons to horses and/or riders inexperienced at trail riding and yellow ribbons to the tails of stallions. These decisions should be made long before the trail ride starts.
3. When preparing to mount and begin riding, do not walk off until every person is safely in the saddle and ready to start. If someone has to dismount in route, everyone should stop until that person can remount and prepare to get on the way again. Wait until all riders are mounted and ready to ride before any horses move out.
4. Keep at least one horse length between you and the horse in front of you. This will allow you to view the trail ahead and prevent your horse from being kicked.
5. Be watchful for trail hazards and relay them to those behind you. Be specific when describing the hazard, such as: “Deep hole on the left; stay to the right.”
6. Assume every rider--or horse--in the group is comfortable with changes of gait. Before you head out, determine which gait is acceptable to everyone on the ride. And once you change a gait, continuously check (by sight and voice) that everyone is doing okay.
7. Establish a method to announce or signal changes in the rate of speed or the gait. Horses can pile into each other during unannounced slowing or stops. Use a hand signal or your voice to convey your intentions to the riders behind you.
8. When watering your horse, take turns and do not ride off until every horse has had an opportunity to drink and everyone is mounted.
9. Don't lope or gallop in a group on the trail unless everyone knows about it. Fast gaits tend to "hype up" horses, which, in turn, can cause serious problems that even an experienced rider may find difficult or dangerous. All it takes is for one horse to act up at a fast pace, and the whole group can get out of hand.
10.As a general rule, all other trail users (bicycles, hikers, etc. ) must yield to horses. Be prepared for any reaction your horse may have to others. Always speak to those you meet. Hearing a human voice will calm a horse seeing a bicycle or backpack for the first time.
11.When meeting others on a hill, the uphill group, or groups with children, have the right of way and those going downhill should yield. Do not begin your descent if you see a group coming up. If you are already on the trail, safely move your horse off the trail with his hindquarters away from approaching traffic. When anyone, or a group, is seen approaching your trail riders, call out their presence to the rest of your riders.
12.Be environmentally friendly. Carry out what you carry in. Do not ride off trail or cut across switchbacks unless it’s approved.
13.Look for changes in the trail and terrain. Increase following distances when traveling down a heavily wooded trail, so branches swept aside by one rider don't hit the next horse and rider. Keep to a safe pace over tricky footing and on difficult trails.
14.Trade positions within the group. Each member of the group will benefit from taking the positions of lead horse, middle horse and last horse in turn. Pass on the left at a walk. Announce your intention before you pass. When being passed, move to the right to allow passing on the left. Stay within sight of other riders and keep other riders in sight. Be sure to check for the riders in front and back of you to insure that they are still with the group, are safe and their horses are in control. Don't allow slow-moving horses to get far behind the group. If they do, they may become difficult to handle. It's not wise for riders of slow movers to keep trotting up behind the group to catch up. This can startle or stir up the other horses in the group. Try to pair experienced riders with inexperienced riders throughout the line of horses. Be prepared to assist those needing help. Stop and wait until everyone in the group is safe and ready to start again. Leave gates as found. Riders should wait for the gate closer to be remounted and ready to ride before the group resumes the ride. No out of control horses or riders will be allowed. They will be asked to dismount and/or leave the ride. When coming to a hill, weather going up or down, allow the rider ahead of you to clear enough distance to allow your horse to begin its climb or descent without crowding the horse in front. Be prepared to encounter folks on the trail who do not know or understand trail etiquette. Weigh the measure of discussing it with them, or simply just let it go.
Show Skills for Every Horse
By the Editors of EQUUS magazine
Whether he competes or not, here are five skills every horse needs to
have.The job description of a competition horse can be very different than
that of a pleasure mount, but there are some skills that serve all horses well
both inside and outside of the show ring. Whether or not you plan to compete
this year, spend some time working on the following life skills to maximize
safety and minimize stress for both of you.
Get him on board—and off. Practice daily until your
horse loads and climbs out of the trailer without hesitation. If possible,
accustom him to loading first and last when he’s in a group, and familiarize
yourself with handling him solo. Seek advice of an experienced friend or trainer
if you run into trouble. Polished loading skills obviously make a show day run
smoother, but are just as important for horses who travel only to trailheads or
may leave the farm only in an emergency veterinary situation.
Gradually build patience. Teach your horse to stand
quietly in-hand next to you for an extended period of time. Start with just a
few minutes a day and work your way to nearly and hour. It’s fine if he shifts
his weight or pays attention to what’s going on around him, but don’t let him
learn or run his head on you, reach for grass or otherwise fidget. This skill
will pay off whether you are waiting your turn outside an arena, or if you are
simply stopping to chat with a friend over the fence on an afternoon
ride.
Tack him anywhere. Develop your prowess for fully
tacking your horse outside the confines of a stall. Work quickly but
carefully—particularly when you remove the halter to put on the bridle—and teach
him to stand still during the process. At shows you'll often find yourself
tacking up standing beside the trailer and at home you may find yourself needing
to make a tack change or adjustment in an open space.
Acquaint him with ribbons. So that your horse will be
unfazed by its flutter, desensitize him first to a ribbon in your hand. Then
slowly bring it closer to his head. Back off when he gets agitated; continue
when he’s calm. After a few days of familiarization, he should accept wearing
the ribbon on his bridle or halter. Even if you never plan to show, it's nice to
know you can be handed a piece of paper on a windy day while you are mounted
without your horse getting upset.
Turn up the volume. Borrow a public-address system or a
karaoke machine to introduce your horse to loud noises. Use the machine in his
vicinity to acclimate him to a variety of sounds, including occasional feedback.
At the show ground, your horse won't be upset by the announcements and at home,
a passing truck or loud radio will be no big deal.
Buying the Right Horse
By Clinton Anderson with J. Forsberg Meyer
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Subscribe Today and
Save!
Horse-buying mistakes are costly and heartbreaking. Avoid them with these
key tips from master horseman and clinician Clinton Anderson.
Be sure to ride the prospective horse a few times
in different situations.
Looking to buy a horse? The time is definitely right, as
it's a buyer's market in this down economy. But just because a horse is "a good
deal" doesn't mean he'll be good for you. If he doesn't match your
needs in several key ways, he won't make you happy-even if you get him for
free.
I'm going to give you seven key criteria to consider before you make that
important buying decision, plus a list of strategies to apply to any horse
purchase. If you make good use of this information, you'll greatly increase the
odds that you next horse will be a pleasure to own and fun to ride.
Sound good? Then let's get started, mate.
1. Is he a match for your riding ability?
This is the
biggie, of course. The horse’s temperament and “brokeness” must match your
experience and ability level as a rider and handler. The biggest mistake I see
at my clinics all over the country is green, inexperienced people trying to work
with green, inexperienced horses. When you’re a novice, trying to learn on an
inexperienced horse is the ideal way to destroy your confidence, set your
training back, and put yourself in a position to get hurt.
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Instead, select a horse that has a little age and maturity on him, with
plenty of training and riding on his resumé. Well-cared-for horses can remain
serviceably sound and rideable well into their teens and beyond, and many of the
older ones are terrific confidence-builders.
Don’t tell yourself that you and a young horse will “learn together.” I have
a saying about that: “Horses teach people, then people teach horses.”
By that I mean, first buy one that already has the training and experience to
teach you. Then, much later, after you've had a chance to absorb what
one or more seasoned horses can teach you, you can try your hand with a greener
prospect or with starting a colt.
If you're not sure what your ability level is, get evaluated by a
professional. Take a few lessons with a reputable trainer, then ask him or her
to recommend the type of horse that will work best for you. This person might
also help you find that horse.
2. Will he suit your riding goals?
First ask yourself
what you want to do with the horse. Take nice, quiet trail rides? Be competitive
in Western pleasure or reining? Try your hand at barrel racing? Each of these
warrants a horse with a different background of training and experience.
If trail riding is your main goal, for example, don’t let yourself fall in
love with one that’s a “made” pleasure horse—but has never set hoof out of an
arena. In other words, make sure the horse has been successfully doing what
you want to do with him.
By the same token, if you’re buying a horse for your child, be sure the horse
in question has been ridden by a kid in roughly the same age group as yours. A
horse that’s great for an adult won’t necessarily be good for a child. Sometimes
they are, but to be safe, try to find one that’s already been working as a
child’s mount.
3. Do his energy needs match your riding schedule?
This
one is often overlooked. Here’s how it goes: You look at a horse that’s in a
six- day-a-week program, and he’s just as nice and quiet and well-mannered as
can be.
You buy him, bring him home, and put him on your schedule—that is, three days
a week when you can manage it, and often just weekends. In a month’s time, the
nice, quiet horse has turned into a nervous, high-powered wreck.
To avoid this pitfall, always ask what type of riding schedule the horse
needs to be at his best. If what the horse needs differs from what you can give
him, proceed with caution. You might ask the owners to put him on that schedule,
then go try him again later. Here’s also where a trial or a lease-to-buy
arrangement can be very helpful.
Above all, if you know you’re going to have just one or two days a week to
ride and work with the horse, be absolutely sure you select a quiet one that’s
already proved to stay sane and happy on that sort of schedule.
4. Is his behavior consistent?
Obviously, you can’t
answer this one if you only try him once, no matter how good he seems the first
time you ride him. Go back and ride him as many times as you can, and in
different settings.
Ask the owner to find another horse, if need be, so the two of you can go on
a trail ride—ideally away from home base (because a lot of horses act much
differently away from home than they do in their familiar stomping grounds).
Or, if showing is your main goal, ask the owner to bring the horse to a local
schooling show, where you can ride him around the show grounds to see how he
reacts in a show environment. If appropriate and the buyer is willing, you might
also ride the horse in a class or two.
5. Is he willing, able, and happy to learn?
The
best way to assess this quality is to try some of my training methods on the
horse. Look for a good-natured willingness to attempt what you’re asking, rather
than smooth performance. In other words, if you try to flex his neck to the side
from the ground, or back him out of your personal space, don’t worry if he seems
a bit stiff or slow to respond. Instead, note whether he at least tries to
understand and do what you’re asking, without getting sullen, cranky, or
defiant.
Ideally, do this impromptu training on several different days, and see if the
horse improves over time. If he does, and if he accepts the training without
objection, then he’s likely a willing and good learner—a highly desirable
quality.
6. Will he lope quietly?
You wouldn’t believe how many
people don’t lope a horse before buying him. Yet loping is so critical, not just
to see how he lopes, but also as a measure of his overall training, willingness,
and temperament.
You see, most horses feel some obligation to at least walk and trot, and will
do so without much backtalk. It’s when you ask them to lope that chinks in their
training or any latent naughtiness issues are likely to come out.
Obviously, start by having the owner lope the horse. If he or she won’t, it
should be a deal-breaker, regardless of the excuse. Then, if for any reason you
don’t feel comfortable loping the horse yourself (because you want to get to
know the horse more first), bring along someone who will.
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Ideally, the horse should lope willingly and quietly, on the correct lead. If
he can do it on a loose rein, even better.
Especially if you’re a timid rider, remember this: A lack of confidence
almost always stems from a feeling of lack of control. When you feel you have
control, you feel confident. And if you have a horse that lopes willingly and
quietly from the get-go, you’ll feel in control of him.
7. Will he pass a vet check?
A pre-purchase exam (or vet check) is important regardless of the horse’s
asking price—because you can get just as attached to an inexpensive horse as you
can to a costly one, and any later vet care will cost as much as it would for a
pricey horse.
Bear in mind, though, that every horse will have some negatives—especially
those terrific, more mature confidence builders. The key is to talk to the
examining veterinarian about what you can and can’t live with, based on your
intended use for the horse. (And you may be able to negotiate a reduced price
based on what the vet check turns up.)
On the other hand, if a serious, can’t-live-with-it problem turns up, don’t
hesitate to reject the horse. Remember, there’s always another horse out there.
This won’t be your only chance, so don’t buy yourself into a heartache.
Ready to look for the right horse for you? Go to Equine.com, the premier
classifieds site of the Equine Network, to search for the perfect
horse!
2. Many groups tie red ribbons to the tails of those horses known to kick, green ribbons to horses and/or riders inexperienced at trail riding and yellow ribbons to the tails of stallions. These decisions should be made long before the trail ride starts.
3. When preparing to mount and begin riding, do not walk off until every person is safely in the saddle and ready to start. If someone has to dismount in route, everyone should stop until that person can remount and prepare to get on the way again. Wait until all riders are mounted and ready to ride before any horses move out.
4. Keep at least one horse length between you and the horse in front of you. This will allow you to view the trail ahead and prevent your horse from being kicked.
5. Be watchful for trail hazards and relay them to those behind you. Be specific when describing the hazard, such as: “Deep hole on the left; stay to the right.”
6. Assume every rider--or horse--in the group is comfortable with changes of gait. Before you head out, determine which gait is acceptable to everyone on the ride. And once you change a gait, continuously check (by sight and voice) that everyone is doing okay.
7. Establish a method to announce or signal changes in the rate of speed or the gait. Horses can pile into each other during unannounced slowing or stops. Use a hand signal or your voice to convey your intentions to the riders behind you.
8. When watering your horse, take turns and do not ride off until every horse has had an opportunity to drink and everyone is mounted.
9. Don't lope or gallop in a group on the trail unless everyone knows about it. Fast gaits tend to "hype up" horses, which, in turn, can cause serious problems that even an experienced rider may find difficult or dangerous. All it takes is for one horse to act up at a fast pace, and the whole group can get out of hand.
10.As a general rule, all other trail users (bicycles, hikers, etc. ) must yield to horses. Be prepared for any reaction your horse may have to others. Always speak to those you meet. Hearing a human voice will calm a horse seeing a bicycle or backpack for the first time.
11.When meeting others on a hill, the uphill group, or groups with children, have the right of way and those going downhill should yield. Do not begin your descent if you see a group coming up. If you are already on the trail, safely move your horse off the trail with his hindquarters away from approaching traffic. When anyone, or a group, is seen approaching your trail riders, call out their presence to the rest of your riders.
12.Be environmentally friendly. Carry out what you carry in. Do not ride off trail or cut across switchbacks unless it’s approved.
13.Look for changes in the trail and terrain. Increase following distances when traveling down a heavily wooded trail, so branches swept aside by one rider don't hit the next horse and rider. Keep to a safe pace over tricky footing and on difficult trails.
14.Trade positions within the group. Each member of the group will benefit from taking the positions of lead horse, middle horse and last horse in turn. Pass on the left at a walk. Announce your intention before you pass. When being passed, move to the right to allow passing on the left. Stay within sight of other riders and keep other riders in sight. Be sure to check for the riders in front and back of you to insure that they are still with the group, are safe and their horses are in control. Don't allow slow-moving horses to get far behind the group. If they do, they may become difficult to handle. It's not wise for riders of slow movers to keep trotting up behind the group to catch up. This can startle or stir up the other horses in the group. Try to pair experienced riders with inexperienced riders throughout the line of horses. Be prepared to assist those needing help. Stop and wait until everyone in the group is safe and ready to start again. Leave gates as found. Riders should wait for the gate closer to be remounted and ready to ride before the group resumes the ride. No out of control horses or riders will be allowed. They will be asked to dismount and/or leave the ride. When coming to a hill, weather going up or down, allow the rider ahead of you to clear enough distance to allow your horse to begin its climb or descent without crowding the horse in front. Be prepared to encounter folks on the trail who do not know or understand trail etiquette. Weigh the measure of discussing it with them, or simply just let it go.
Show Skills for Every Horse
By the Editors of EQUUS magazine
Whether he competes or not, here are five skills every horse needs to
have.The job description of a competition horse can be very different than
that of a pleasure mount, but there are some skills that serve all horses well
both inside and outside of the show ring. Whether or not you plan to compete
this year, spend some time working on the following life skills to maximize
safety and minimize stress for both of you.
Get him on board—and off. Practice daily until your
horse loads and climbs out of the trailer without hesitation. If possible,
accustom him to loading first and last when he’s in a group, and familiarize
yourself with handling him solo. Seek advice of an experienced friend or trainer
if you run into trouble. Polished loading skills obviously make a show day run
smoother, but are just as important for horses who travel only to trailheads or
may leave the farm only in an emergency veterinary situation.
Gradually build patience. Teach your horse to stand
quietly in-hand next to you for an extended period of time. Start with just a
few minutes a day and work your way to nearly and hour. It’s fine if he shifts
his weight or pays attention to what’s going on around him, but don’t let him
learn or run his head on you, reach for grass or otherwise fidget. This skill
will pay off whether you are waiting your turn outside an arena, or if you are
simply stopping to chat with a friend over the fence on an afternoon
ride.
Tack him anywhere. Develop your prowess for fully
tacking your horse outside the confines of a stall. Work quickly but
carefully—particularly when you remove the halter to put on the bridle—and teach
him to stand still during the process. At shows you'll often find yourself
tacking up standing beside the trailer and at home you may find yourself needing
to make a tack change or adjustment in an open space.
Acquaint him with ribbons. So that your horse will be
unfazed by its flutter, desensitize him first to a ribbon in your hand. Then
slowly bring it closer to his head. Back off when he gets agitated; continue
when he’s calm. After a few days of familiarization, he should accept wearing
the ribbon on his bridle or halter. Even if you never plan to show, it's nice to
know you can be handed a piece of paper on a windy day while you are mounted
without your horse getting upset.
Turn up the volume. Borrow a public-address system or a
karaoke machine to introduce your horse to loud noises. Use the machine in his
vicinity to acclimate him to a variety of sounds, including occasional feedback.
At the show ground, your horse won't be upset by the announcements and at home,
a passing truck or loud radio will be no big deal.
Buying the Right Horse
By Clinton Anderson with J. Forsberg Meyer
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href="http://ad.doubleclick.net/N7222/jump/EquiSearch.com/Riding_Training/Training/General_Training/Article;tile=2;sz=120x48;ord=[timestamp]?"><
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src="http://ad.doubleclick.net/N7222/ad/EquiSearch.com/Riding_Training/Training/General_Training/Article;tile=2;sz=120x48;ord=[timestamp]?"
width="120" height="48" /></a>
Subscribe Today and
Save!
Horse-buying mistakes are costly and heartbreaking. Avoid them with these
key tips from master horseman and clinician Clinton Anderson.
Be sure to ride the prospective horse a few times
in different situations.
Looking to buy a horse? The time is definitely right, as
it's a buyer's market in this down economy. But just because a horse is "a good
deal" doesn't mean he'll be good for you. If he doesn't match your
needs in several key ways, he won't make you happy-even if you get him for
free.
I'm going to give you seven key criteria to consider before you make that
important buying decision, plus a list of strategies to apply to any horse
purchase. If you make good use of this information, you'll greatly increase the
odds that you next horse will be a pleasure to own and fun to ride.
Sound good? Then let's get started, mate.
1. Is he a match for your riding ability?
This is the
biggie, of course. The horse’s temperament and “brokeness” must match your
experience and ability level as a rider and handler. The biggest mistake I see
at my clinics all over the country is green, inexperienced people trying to work
with green, inexperienced horses. When you’re a novice, trying to learn on an
inexperienced horse is the ideal way to destroy your confidence, set your
training back, and put yourself in a position to get hurt.
Advertisement
.prWrap,.prWrap DIV,.prWrap IMG{margin:0px 0px 0px 0px;padding:0px 0px 0px 0px;border:0px 0px 0px 0px;overflow:visible;direction:ltr;background:none;background-color:transparent;}
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Instead, select a horse that has a little age and maturity on him, with
plenty of training and riding on his resumé. Well-cared-for horses can remain
serviceably sound and rideable well into their teens and beyond, and many of the
older ones are terrific confidence-builders.
Don’t tell yourself that you and a young horse will “learn together.” I have
a saying about that: “Horses teach people, then people teach horses.”
By that I mean, first buy one that already has the training and experience to
teach you. Then, much later, after you've had a chance to absorb what
one or more seasoned horses can teach you, you can try your hand with a greener
prospect or with starting a colt.
If you're not sure what your ability level is, get evaluated by a
professional. Take a few lessons with a reputable trainer, then ask him or her
to recommend the type of horse that will work best for you. This person might
also help you find that horse.
2. Will he suit your riding goals?
First ask yourself
what you want to do with the horse. Take nice, quiet trail rides? Be competitive
in Western pleasure or reining? Try your hand at barrel racing? Each of these
warrants a horse with a different background of training and experience.
If trail riding is your main goal, for example, don’t let yourself fall in
love with one that’s a “made” pleasure horse—but has never set hoof out of an
arena. In other words, make sure the horse has been successfully doing what
you want to do with him.
By the same token, if you’re buying a horse for your child, be sure the horse
in question has been ridden by a kid in roughly the same age group as yours. A
horse that’s great for an adult won’t necessarily be good for a child. Sometimes
they are, but to be safe, try to find one that’s already been working as a
child’s mount.
3. Do his energy needs match your riding schedule?
This
one is often overlooked. Here’s how it goes: You look at a horse that’s in a
six- day-a-week program, and he’s just as nice and quiet and well-mannered as
can be.
You buy him, bring him home, and put him on your schedule—that is, three days
a week when you can manage it, and often just weekends. In a month’s time, the
nice, quiet horse has turned into a nervous, high-powered wreck.
To avoid this pitfall, always ask what type of riding schedule the horse
needs to be at his best. If what the horse needs differs from what you can give
him, proceed with caution. You might ask the owners to put him on that schedule,
then go try him again later. Here’s also where a trial or a lease-to-buy
arrangement can be very helpful.
Above all, if you know you’re going to have just one or two days a week to
ride and work with the horse, be absolutely sure you select a quiet one that’s
already proved to stay sane and happy on that sort of schedule.
4. Is his behavior consistent?
Obviously, you can’t
answer this one if you only try him once, no matter how good he seems the first
time you ride him. Go back and ride him as many times as you can, and in
different settings.
Ask the owner to find another horse, if need be, so the two of you can go on
a trail ride—ideally away from home base (because a lot of horses act much
differently away from home than they do in their familiar stomping grounds).
Or, if showing is your main goal, ask the owner to bring the horse to a local
schooling show, where you can ride him around the show grounds to see how he
reacts in a show environment. If appropriate and the buyer is willing, you might
also ride the horse in a class or two.
5. Is he willing, able, and happy to learn?
The
best way to assess this quality is to try some of my training methods on the
horse. Look for a good-natured willingness to attempt what you’re asking, rather
than smooth performance. In other words, if you try to flex his neck to the side
from the ground, or back him out of your personal space, don’t worry if he seems
a bit stiff or slow to respond. Instead, note whether he at least tries to
understand and do what you’re asking, without getting sullen, cranky, or
defiant.
Ideally, do this impromptu training on several different days, and see if the
horse improves over time. If he does, and if he accepts the training without
objection, then he’s likely a willing and good learner—a highly desirable
quality.
6. Will he lope quietly?
You wouldn’t believe how many
people don’t lope a horse before buying him. Yet loping is so critical, not just
to see how he lopes, but also as a measure of his overall training, willingness,
and temperament.
You see, most horses feel some obligation to at least walk and trot, and will
do so without much backtalk. It’s when you ask them to lope that chinks in their
training or any latent naughtiness issues are likely to come out.
Obviously, start by having the owner lope the horse. If he or she won’t, it
should be a deal-breaker, regardless of the excuse. Then, if for any reason you
don’t feel comfortable loping the horse yourself (because you want to get to
know the horse more first), bring along someone who will.
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Ideally, the horse should lope willingly and quietly, on the correct lead. If
he can do it on a loose rein, even better.
Especially if you’re a timid rider, remember this: A lack of confidence
almost always stems from a feeling of lack of control. When you feel you have
control, you feel confident. And if you have a horse that lopes willingly and
quietly from the get-go, you’ll feel in control of him.
7. Will he pass a vet check?
A pre-purchase exam (or vet check) is important regardless of the horse’s
asking price—because you can get just as attached to an inexpensive horse as you
can to a costly one, and any later vet care will cost as much as it would for a
pricey horse.
Bear in mind, though, that every horse will have some negatives—especially
those terrific, more mature confidence builders. The key is to talk to the
examining veterinarian about what you can and can’t live with, based on your
intended use for the horse. (And you may be able to negotiate a reduced price
based on what the vet check turns up.)
On the other hand, if a serious, can’t-live-with-it problem turns up, don’t
hesitate to reject the horse. Remember, there’s always another horse out there.
This won’t be your only chance, so don’t buy yourself into a heartache.
Ready to look for the right horse for you? Go to Equine.com, the premier
classifieds site of the Equine Network, to search for the perfect
horse!